We’re staying in the Yak & Yeti, a classic 5 star hotel near the city center. I stayed here in 2011 as part of my Everest Base Camp trek and it is wonderful. The expedition company, mountain Madness, always chooses great places.

I’m not going to post beautiful pictures of the lobby, pool,and gardens though. You’ll have to imagine them. Truth told, I’m a little conflicted about staying here in the knowledge of how 99.99% of the Nepalis actually live. But it’s convenient to where we go and is a welcome respite from our days in the real Kathmandu which are totally overwhelming. The intense sights, sounds, smells, and interactions are like nowhere I’ve ever been. And it costs about the same as your average Marriott Courtyard.

We had a leisurely breakfast on Thursday, our first full day, and set out toward Durbar Square. This is a taste of what greeted us.